Weipa - Mareeba is 724kms! Dirt for around 500kms of that.
But the lure of our own cosy bed was stronger than the moans and groans of our ageing bodies.
So to catch up some of the memories before they fade in my foggy brain.
Before leaving we chatted to lots of folk coming back from the top to get some idea of the conditions. Most told us the road was a bone shattering disaster zone. Perception is everything in life. We found the road to be in wonderful condition given it is a major road that happens to be dirt. Comparing it to other dirt roads we have travelled, we feel it is in good condition. I think most of the people we spoke to were town folk who have limited off bitumen experience. Yes there are patches which are severely corrugated and quite dangerous but the road is well marked with signs reminding people to "drive to the conditions". Given the speed some of them were doing, I think they thought that meant they could do whatever they jolly well liked! Two people died on that road the week before we drove it and on the way up we saw a car that had recently been rolled and along the way there are car wrecks, quite a few of them somewhat flatter than when they left the showroom floor. On the way back we heard of yet another roll over caused by hitting corrugations at high speed on a bend. It is distressing to drive past obviously recent debris on the side of the road.
We stuck to the main road although one can veer off it on occasion and take the roads less travelled for some serious off road experiences. Sitting in some of the roadhouses along the way are pictures of peoples experiences along the Old Telegraph Track which I believe is a 'must do' for the serious off road fanatics. Thrills and spills galore!
On arriving at the top you can stay in either Bamaga or Seisha. We chose Seisha as it is just that little bit closer to the top and is also where you need to be to catch the various ferries or boat tours to the islands. The camping ground at Seisha is right on the beach front next to the wharf area. It is a big park and the folk are Islander, very relaxed and friendly.
Side note: The local year 7 school kids were holding a car wash to raise funds for their school camp. At $15 a car they were making a killing as all the weary travellers came off the dirt and were happy to have clean cars again. Yes, we donated!
We pitched our tent and settled in.
We stayed three nights and every night at some stage we were woken by loud barking which would not stop until someone went out and chased away the feral horses which wander at will around the area including in the camp-ground. Bit freaky at night when you hear noises right beside your tiny little tent! The dogs do not like the horses and set up a racket every time they come into the area. This in turn sets off the birds which in turn sets off the people and so on it goes. Was very tired by the time we left. We did get sleep but it was always broken sleep.
Someone commented that they thought there would be more wildlife around. We saw horses, pigs, kangaroos, cows and snakes (all sizes and colours and way too many to count!) on the roads. Wonder where he was looking?
The top end get all their supplies by boat. Unfortunately the boat had a breakdown and they got no deliveries for two weeks. By the time we left the pubs in both towns had run out of beer, the local supermarket had no milk and very little else on the shelves and on a more personal level we had no hot water in the camp ground as they had run out of bottled gas! Good news, the boat did make it this week. No doubt things will be back to normal again soon.
Everyone reading this should also go back and re- read my entries for the last week as I have edited them and added more information and pics now that I am back in an area with good internet.
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