Tuesday...31 July 2012

Yesterday we visited Herberton. It is an old tin mining town only 20kms from Atherton.
We never did get to see any of the old tin mines so we will need to go back again one day to look at them.
We began our day with a visit to the local Information Centre which is also a mining museum and the local Herberton museum. Well designed and full of time-lines and facts about the mining history of far north Queensland and Australia in general. They have an impressive array of rocks. Very educational.
From there we went to the Herberton Historical Village.
Wow. This is the most comprehensive collection of collections we have ever seen.
There are 47 buildings all from times gone by, some of them moved from other towns and relocated in this wonderful display. Each building houses a different collection of memorabilia.
They say you can see most of it in 3 hours, however people have been known to spend a whole day there and still not see it all. They have plans to open up more of the area with displays of things yet to be restored.
We started with the jail buildings and moved on to the newspaper office complete with a manual typewriter collection and cupboards and drawers full of old fashioned typeset lettering.

The music shop has a brilliant display of old sheet  music and 78's and gramophones. Next door was a camera display, they even have an old theatre projector. The school was full of the original books just sitting there on the desks and bookselves. You could if you wanted sit right down at the old school desks and answer the Arithmetic and English questions on the blackboard!
There was a fully equipped dental surgery and a small hospital display. It came complete with old surgical instruments and ancient wheelchairs and beds. The post office had a display of old telephones and an original telephone exchange operator desk. It also had the post boxes and automated stamp dispenser.
The dress shop held gloves, bags, shoes,stockings, underwear, hats, hatboxes, suitcases and dresses for ladies and children. One of the things I saw was removable lace collars which took me back to the beautiful crocheted collar that Grandma made for me in the early 60's. I wore it with pride as it was a work of art and highly fashionable.
The sewing machine repair shop was a display of sewing machines and old patterns and exquisite embroidery. Next to that was the radio shop full of old radios from the big heavy pieces of furniture down to the portable transistor radios.  The music room held pianos and violins. The toy shop was a walk down memory lane with golliwogs and snakes and ladders and dolls and bikes and marbles and toy trucks and the best collection of cap guns I have seen for a while.
The pub had a collection of old fashioned ice boxes and kerosene refrigerators. Their bridal suite was impressive and I liked the water trough out the front for the horses. The coach house had some of the nicest horse and bullock drawn vehicles I have seen anywhere. It included a very ornate but lovely horse drawn hearse!

The garage held old cars and a couple of motorbikes but what I liked was the spare parts like spark plugs and bearings still in their original packaging along with a display of the old bottles they used to use to top up the oil in your car. Naturally there was a display of tools as well. Out the front of the garage was four old manual petrol pumps.
The butcher shop had huge original butchers blocks that looked like cut down tree trunks and they probably were! The chemist was closed but, through the window, you could see bottles of pills and potions on the shelves behind the counter.
There was a shed full of axes and cross-cut saws and some older chainsaws. Next to that was a display about the Queensland wood-chopping champions. There was a railway station with a rail ambulance waiting at the station.
In the outer buildings was machinery of all sorts. Outside was also a collection of old bulldozers and trucks waiting to be restored.
I know I have missed bits but honestly this really is a must see place. There is lots to see of interest  for both men and women.
We do all get a bit ho hum about museums, when you have seen a few there is not much new to look at but this one is outstanding. So much history and memorabilia it really is mind boggling.
We will definitely be making time to go again and this time we will take a spare battery for the camera as the battery gave out from over use about half way.

Saturday...28 July 2012

Golly all that bouncing down dirt roads takes it out of an ageing body!
Have been so so tired. Ache all over and keep having nanny naps.
It has taken forever to pack away after the trip.  Took Himself an entire day to wash and clean the F250. He still hasn't put everything back into it yet. He has not needed naps so I suppose he is holding up better than me!
Today the Olympics started. Got up early to watch the opening ceremony and wouldn't you know it, my TV does not want to watch the Olympic channel. I have more than 20 channels to chose from but for some reason the one showing the Olympics keeps pixelating. Very frustrating. Guess it is all down to our location.
Nothing else to say. Very lazy with no plans other than to watch whatever parts of the Olympics my TV lets me.

Thursday...26 July 2012

We got back to base quite late last night.
Weipa - Mareeba is 724kms!  Dirt for around 500kms of that. 
But the lure of our own cosy bed was stronger than the moans and groans of our ageing bodies.


So to catch up some of the memories before they fade in my foggy brain.
Before leaving we chatted to lots of folk coming back from the top to get some idea of the conditions. Most told us the road was a bone shattering disaster zone. Perception is everything in life. We found the road to be in wonderful condition given it is a major road that happens to be dirt. Comparing it to other dirt roads we have travelled, we feel it is in good condition. I think most of the people we spoke to were town folk who have limited off bitumen experience. Yes there are patches which are severely corrugated and quite dangerous but the road is well marked with signs reminding people to "drive to the conditions". Given the speed some of them were doing, I think they thought that meant they could do whatever they jolly well liked!  Two people died on that road the week before we drove it and on the way up we saw a car that had recently been rolled and along the way there are car wrecks, quite a few of them somewhat flatter than when they left the showroom floor. On the way back we heard of yet another roll over caused by hitting corrugations at high speed on a bend. It is distressing to drive past obviously recent debris on the side of the road.
We stuck to the main road although one can veer off it on occasion and take the roads less travelled for some serious off road experiences. Sitting in some of the roadhouses along the way are pictures of peoples experiences along the Old Telegraph Track which I believe is a 'must do' for the serious off road fanatics. Thrills and spills galore!
On arriving at the top you can stay in either Bamaga or Seisha. We chose Seisha as it is just that little bit closer to the top and is also where you need to be to catch the various ferries or boat tours to the islands. The camping ground at Seisha is right on the beach front next to the wharf area. It is a big park and the folk are Islander, very relaxed and friendly.  
Side note: The local year 7 school kids were holding a car wash to raise funds for their school camp. At $15 a car they were making a killing as all the weary travellers came off the dirt and were happy to have clean cars again. Yes, we donated!
We pitched our tent and settled in. 

We stayed three nights and every night at some stage we were woken by loud barking which would not stop until someone went out and chased away the feral horses which wander at will around the area including in the camp-ground. Bit freaky at night when you hear noises right beside your tiny little tent!  The dogs do not like the horses and set up a racket every time they come into the area. This in turn sets off the birds which in turn sets off the people and so on it goes. Was very tired by the time we left. We did get sleep but it was always broken sleep. 
Someone commented that they thought there would be more wildlife around. We saw horses, pigs, kangaroos, cows and snakes (all sizes and colours and way too many to count!) on the roads. Wonder where he was looking?
The top end get all their supplies by boat. Unfortunately the boat had a breakdown and they got no deliveries for two weeks. By the time we left the pubs in both towns had run out of beer, the local supermarket had no milk and very little else on the shelves and on a more personal level we had no hot water in the camp ground as they had run out of bottled gas! Good news, the boat did make it this week. No doubt things will be back to normal again soon.


Everyone reading this should also go back and re- read my entries for the last week as I have edited them and added more information and pics now that I am back in an area with good internet.

Tuesday...24 July 2012

So yesterday we took a boat tour to Horne Island and Thursday Island.
I am very proud of myself as I got on a small twin hull boat no bigger than a fishing dingy (well that's what it looked like to me!) and crossed Torres Strait x twice without screaming or throwing up or begging to be taken back to shore! Himself has a couple of bruises where I was hanging on tight.
First stop was Horne Island. 
As part of the tour we were on we had lunch which was freshly caught fish with chips and salad and lots of lovely cold cold water. Served once again by very friendly Islanders. 
After lunch it was off to the Horne Island museum for a couple of hours. There was so much information one could easily have spent a whole day in there just reading all the stuff on display. Most of it related to the islands involvement in the war. 

There was also a lot of information and displays of Islander heritage and culture.

Then it was back onto our boat for a ten minute ride across the bay to Thursday Island where we were taken for a tour of the Island by taxi. Part of that tour took us up to Green Hill Fort where again we had stunning views of most of TI and the surrounding islands, you can even see the mainland from up there.

The tour took us past the local cemetery. Part of it holds over 800 graves of Japanese pearl divers who all died of the 'bends'. Big money, bigger risks!
At the end of the taxi tour of the island we were dropped off in the main street to wander at will around the town and shops. We took a look at the new cultural centre which will be a first rate display when it is completed. Right now it is open but still a work in progress. Amazing how a group of Australians can think alike. Without planning we all eventually wandered into the pub closest to the wharf for a quiet drink while overlooking the ocean before the return trip to the mainland.

The trip back was spectacular as we were in front of the setting sun. Beautiful. We also took a small detour to see Possession Island which is where Captain James Cook placed his marker to take possession of Australia. We did  not land, but there is a cairn clearly visible to all who pass by the spot. The ironic part of that story is that he put his marker on Possession Island instead of the actual mainland. We nearly got to be a very very tiny nation of a couple of acres!!
Fascinating trip. So glad we went.

This morning we packed up and bounced our way back down the road to Weipa, a little RioTinto bauxite mine on the western edge of the Cape York Peninsula.
We have pitched our tent in the Weipa camp ground. Another waterfront location. Shame about the green ants and mango trees dripping red sap on everything! Mine tours are $30 each. No thanks. We only go to mines that pay us to be there!
Tomorrow we head back to base.

Sunday... 22 July 2012

Well here we are at the top of Australia!
Today we went and saw/touched the sign that says you are now at the northern most point of Australia. Wow.  Another big tick in the bucket list.

The drive to get here was a bit hairy, and then to cap it all off the drive to the top was even hairyer!  Only 44kms out from town, but it had everything from corrugations to potholes to one lane tracks through rain forest that covered the road like a tunnel and a water crossing through fairly deep water . Then when we pulled into the carparking area it became apparent that nothing is easy, we now had to do a 20mins hike over rock in a high wind area to actually reach the objective. Not a hard climb, and the views are spectacular. To the right is the Coral Sea, in front is Torres Strait and to the left is the Arafura Sea. And islands. Lots of islands, big and small. If you get there at low tide you can actually walk around to the point along the waters edge if you keep a sharp look out for the crocodiles that call that patch of sand and mangroves their territory.
Been there done that!!

On the way back to camp we found some plane wrecks in the bush around the Bamaga airport.

Friday...20 July 2012

Up early to pack the car and head north to Cape York.

First up we had a hiccup with the Engel, something broke in the connection that allows it to continue running from the car battery system, so Himself said no worries and jumped in the car and headed off down the street to get a replacement part. 

Small problem. Today is a holiday in Mareeba for Cairns showday!  Bugger! Most of the shops shut. Not being local, we did not know this. He hunted high and low and eventually found a place open that could help and although we were very late getting away we finally hit the road at 10.15am.

The first couple of hundred kms were bitumen but eventually we hit the gravel road and 308 bone shaking kms later we arrived in Coen. Both of us said it reminded us of the Access Road up where we used to live. Tonight we are staying in donga style accommodation at the one and only local pub. Himself has gone off to order our dinner which is pizza. No choice. Tonight is pizza night or nothing apparently. Is ok, we like pizza. And if not we have a couple of steaks in the Engel. Just a bit too tired to cook after our long day.

Tomorrow we will  attack the gravel roads again. It is around 400kms of dirt road to the top. Thirty plus years of practice we can do it........
Found this 'tree' at a roadhouse along the way. Wonder if they were shaken loose or are they off the ones who did not make it?

Wednesday...18 July 2012

Happy Birthday Cindy.

Quiet day. Reading maps and talking to others who have trekked to the top of Australia. Sometime soon we will pack a few bits in the F250 and head off to look at the northern most point of this great land.